Hong Kong newspaper explains why tourists love Vietnam's misty town
Market news
07/10/2024
Vietnam is a popular holiday destination for Hong Kongers as Hanoi is only a two-hour flight from Hong Kong International Airport. But there are many attractions for Hong Kong tourists beyond the capital, such as Sa Pa.
At 1,600m above sea level, Sa Pa is difficult for most people to access, except for the ethnic minority groups who build terraced fields on the hillsides. However, this is also a special place, attracting tourists who love to explore.
Terraced fields have always attracted tourists
PHOTO: SCMP
In 1901, when French colonists stumbled upon a peaceful place after discovering the land, Sa Pa began to change.
The French were fascinated by the terraced fields, towering mountains and a cooler climate than the heat of the Red River Delta, so they began to develop Sa Pa as their summer getaway. In 1905, trains began running between Hanoi and Lao Cai.
After the war, Vietnamese living in cities began to visit Sa Pa, and eventually, adventurous international backpackers discovered that the misty mountain town was worth a visit.
After the Hanoi-Lao Cai Expressway opened in 2014, Sa Pa’s centre began to develop further – today it is a bustling place full of guesthouses, hotels and businesses catering to international tourists.
While some of the ethnic minority villages in the nearby valleys are known for being over-commercialised, others such as Lao Chai and Ta Phin remain more traditional.
PHOTO: SCMP
The area’s indigenous language and customs remain intact. The Black Hmong maintain their traditional dress – dark and decorated with beautiful embroidery – which is distinctive. People still marry early and have many children.
Technological advances have empowered the people of Sa Pa – the advent of the internet and smartphones has allowed them to operate homestays and work as mountain guides.
Sa Pa is no longer just a backpacker’s dream; you know a place is on the radar of luxury travellers when it has a Bill Bensley-designed hotel, and that’s the Hotel de la Coupole – MGallery.
Opened in 2019 and operated by Accor, Europe’s largest hotel brand, the hotel’s European architecture draws visitors to stop and take photos.
The hotel reflects MGallery’s ethos of celebrating local culture and stories in many ways. Its design incorporates elements of hill tribe culture – think lampshades shaped like Hmong hats – and it supports the community by employing people from ethnic minority groups, who are often the first in their families to have a job and a steady salary.
Thanks to its location in the middle of town overlooking the rice terraces and Fansipan mountain, guests can soak up the scenery while enjoying breakfast or afternoon tea.
Hotel de la Coupole - MGallery overlooking the Hoang Lien Son mountain range
Those who are a little more adventurous might want to head to the top of Fansipan. In the past, the only way to reach the 3,147m peak was by hiking for several days. However, since 2016, a cable car has been taking people up the mountain in 20 minutes.
The views on the way up are stunning - you can see the terraced rice fields in all their glory.
The higher up the cable car, the fewer human settlements there are and the more nature takes over, from trees to streams and waterfalls.
Once you exit the cable car and start climbing a series of stairs to the top, one of the most impressive sights is the 21.5m-high Buddha statue, crafted from tens of thousands of thin copper plates and the tallest seated bronze Buddha statue in the world.
What’s even more impressive is that it was built before the cable car, meaning all the materials for the statue were transported up the mountain.
There’s an altitude plaque at the top telling you that you’re at the highest point on the Indochina peninsula.
Impermanence is a cornerstone of the Buddha’s teachings and that’s something you can feel when you reach the top of Fansipan. Mist and clouds often obscure your view – one minute the Buddha is there, the next it’s gone.
The only people who stay on Fansipan long-term are the monks who look after the Buddha and other Buddhist relics, making the mountain feel lonely.
View from Fansipan Peak
Instead of swiping left and right on dating app profiles, locals gather in a square in Sa Pa every Saturday night for a “love market”. Through musical performances and games, young men and women get to know each other better, with the goal of finding a partner.
For more than 100 years, the inaccessible highlands, with scattered settlements, have become a destination for tourists who come to immerse themselves in a more traditional way of life and set foot on the roof of Indochina. Throughout, much has changed while much has remained the same.
The opening of the Hanoi railway in 1905 and the highway in 2014 were turning points in the development of tourism in Sa Pa. A planned airport nearby will bring more visitors to the misty town.
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